Wonky Log Cabin Tutorial #5

Look at how far we've all come!  This is Val's quilt top, ready for basting and quilting:

For the last tutorial, we talked through the basting process, remember?  Basting is securing all three layers of the quilt together - the quilt top, the batting, and the backing - prior to quilting.  You have basting options - straight pins, curved quilting safety pins, or adhesive basting spray - and your choice just depends on your personal preference and style.  I started out using the basting spray, and LOVED it because it kept all the layers very secure while quilting.  I started moving away from using it because I couldn't afford it for all the projects I was doing.  But, whatevs.  It's your preference - try all three and see which you prefer. 
Check out Caitlin's quilt, all basted and ready to go (she used basting spray):

Alright.  This tutorial is about quilting.  You're probably thinking, "Isn't that what we've been doing all along?  Doesn't quilting mean 'to make a quilt'?"  Well, yes.  But it also means to sew through all three layers (top, batting, back) so they stay together.  A lot of traditional quilting is done by hand.  If you have the patience for that, kudos to you.  I do NOT have the ability to do that kind of thing by hand, so I always machine-quilt my pieces.  Side note: I typically use a regular 1/4" presser foot for quilting straight lines.  I have used a walking foot too, but really I don't see any difference in the quality of the quilting.  There's lots of debate research out there about regular vs. walking foot quilting.  Just do what you want.  It'll be OK.
Basically, you'll take your 3-layer basted quilt, and feed it through the machine, stitching in a pattern of some sort over the entire quilt.  There are a variety of pattern options out there.  Caitlin chose "stitch in the ditch," which means she sewed straight lines in each of the seams.  It doesn't really stand out on the front (because it's in the ditch, silly), but it shows up on the back.  I think that is a fun choice for a wonky log cabin quilt, because it adds some wonkiness to the back of the quilt too.  Just make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam - you don't want your masterpiece to unravel.

Others have decided on straight lines in a grid pattern - shows up more on the front and makes the quilt look "quilty" from both sides.  I'm a sucker for a soft, awesome quilty-quilt.  The more lines you stitch, the more quilty it'll look. 
You have tons of options - sewing a line down the middle of each strip, quilting a diamond or triangle grid pattern, only quilting the middle strips or outer strips, quilting 1/4" off the seam lines ... and on and on.  If you're not sure what to do, look around at what other people do, find quilts you like in magazines or on blogs, or allow the shape and pattern of the quilt to guide you.  It's fun to come up with new patterns, but it's good to know that you can just do a grid too.
Another side note: if you want to branch out beyond straight lines, and if you feel comfortable with your machine, you might want to try free-motion quilting.  Free-motion quilting gives you more control over the pattern, and you can do loops, circles, meandering patterns, or words.  I won't give you the tutorial on that (because it overwhelms me), but there are lots of good ones on other blogs (like this one or this one).  I will say, however, that you need to feel pretty comfortable with sewing and your machine before tackling a big quilt with free-motion.  Maybe try it out on a few potholders first.
Quilt the entire quilt - some readjustment may be necessary in the basting as you go along, but that's to be expected. 
Come back soon for Wonky Log Cabin Tutorial #6 ... the final step!

Wonky Log Cabin Tutorial #3

You are reading a blog post by what may be the world's worst blogger.  I forgot the camera at class AGAIN.  I don't have it with me today either, to take staged "class" photos.  I read so many blogs that are just incredible, with all the guest postings, and professional-looking photos, and fancy schmancy things like frequent posts, that it makes me feel inadequate.  But really, I don't care too much.  Alright, I'm over it now.

For class #3, we continued sewing the fabric strips around the wonky square.  Depending on the width of the fabric strips you're working with, you may end up with between four and seven "layers" around the middle square.  For this particular project, I worked all the measurements out to (hopefully) end up with a 40" square quilt, which means each block needs to be at least 20"x20".  So, for each of the blocks, add a strip to the top, then the right, then the bottom, then the left of the middle square, ironing each piece down before sewing the next one on.  When you've completed a full round (four strips around the block), "square off" the block by trimming the uneven edges with a straight ruler and rotary cutter.  You can continue to make it very wonky by tilting the ruler when cutting, or not.  It's up to you.  Play around with the angles you cut and how much you cut off - it's fun to see the block shape up and get more interesting with each layer.  

Keep doing that until a block measures a little bigger than 20"x20".  Iron well.  Repeat for each block.

Trim each block to exactly 20"x20" square, or, if you're wanting to make smaller blocks, whatever size you want.  A good rule of thumb is that a baby blanket should be at least 36"x36".  This is the time when the phrase "square off the block" actually does mean make it square.  I promise I'm not trying to confuse you.

OK, you're done for this week! 

Wonky Log Cabin Tutorial #2

Yesterday was Class #2 with the 5 guinea pigs friends who are letting me teach this wonky log cabin quilting class.  So fun! 
Last week we cut wonky center blocks (approx. 2.5"ish by 2.5"ish) and fabric strips (from 1.5" to 3.5" wide).  We also discussed the basics of making a Log Cabin block, which means adding strips of fabric around a center square in the order of Top, Right, Bottom, Left.

(the "Top" I'm referring to is actually on the right in this image, so in this picture the order of adding is Right Bottom Left Top.  But don't tell my class that it can be any other way than TRBL, because I say it at least every ten minutes that a log cabin quilt should be pieced Top Right Bottom Left.)

This week's agenda: piece log cabin squares and then add some wonkiness!

Start with a center block (the large white one).  Lay a strip of fabric on one side of the block and trim it to equal length.  Sew right sides together (you don't have to backstitch!).  Iron seams to one side (away from the middle block, towards the outer fabric).  This is your "Top:"

Choose another strip of fabric, either the same width as your Top strip, or a different width.  Lay it on the Right side of the block, and trim to length.  With right sides together, sew the fabric strip to the block.  Iron seams away from the middle block.  This is your "Right:"

Continue to do the same process two more times, on the "Bottom" and "Left" sides of the block, ironing after each seam.

This is the part of the blog where I apologize for my picture quality.  Oh well, I'm inside under fluorescent lights.  What can I say?  If you want stellar photography, look somewhere else.

Alright, back to the block - now one whole round of block-making is completed!  The next step is to "square off" the block, which doesn't actually mean making it a square at all.  It means hacking off the uneven ends, and making the block a little more wonky - but with straight edges.  So, line up your ruler along one side (doesn't matter, as you'll be doing this on all four sides) and tilt it a little, so that it's not running parallel to the middle block.  If you look closely, you can see that mine is off by about 1/2 inch.  It's a WONKY log cabin square, people.  This is how you make it wonky - don't give into your urge to make things match up and be straight.  Just tilt and cut with a rotary cutter to make a straight edge!

Trim all four sides.

In class yesterday, we made four of these blocks.  Then time ran out ...

Hint/preview of next week: make the blocks bigger by (do you want to guess?) adding more fabric strips to the TOP RIGHT BOTTOM LEFT and then square off!

Time for Class: A Wonky Log Cabin Tutorial in 6 weeks

Today was the first day of my Wonky Log Cabin class - I am teaching some friends the improvisational techniques used for piecing wonky log cabin squares, and then we're going to go through the process of finishing and binding the quilt!  It felt OFFICIAL, in a really cool way ... I even drew illustrations on the chart paper in the room.  We all agreed that the Women's Center on campus that is letting us use their conference room is awesome.  The room is ideal and the space is perfect!  Woohoo, Women's Center!

For just in case you're interested in doing the project with us, I am going to post after each class what we do and hopefully include some pictures.
Here's the supply list:
-2 yards of coordinating fabric (in ¼ yd. or more sections – so, 4-6 different fabrics to make a total of 2 yards.)

-1 ½ yards fabric for backing
-1/3 yard fabric for binding (backing and binding fabric can be the same, in which case you could get 1 yd 28 inches fabric to make the backing and binding. Or, you can piece together fabric for the binding. Depends on if you want a “scrappy” look or a whole, seamless look)
-¾ yd. of the 90” wide Warm & Natural batting (or Warm & White), off the big bolt, or batting scraps that you can piece together.
-coordinating thread (I’d say go for at least 250 yards. I usually get “coats and clark all purpose thread” but you can get whatever you want.)
-sewing machine, bobbin, spare needles, pins, good scissors, rotary cutter, mat, and ruler.  Oh, and a good seam ripper.

Today's steps:
-Talk about the basics of making a log cabin block.  It's actually really simple, and you do the same step over and over until the block is as big as you want it.  You start with a middle square, and then add strips around it in the following order: Top, Right, Bottom, Left.  More on this later.

-Iron all fabrics.

-Re-fold fabrics so that they look like they did on the bolt.  This means that the selvedge (already finished) ends match up.  You may want to fold it again (matching the first fold with the selvedge ends), depending on how big your mat and ruler are.

-Now you want to "square off" the fabric.  This means cut off the frayed, uneven edges at a 90-degree angle to the fold, so that your fabric is square.

-Cut the fabric into strips of varying widths - I suggest anywhere from 1.5" to 3.5".  Cut straight strips (we'll make them wonky later).

-Repeat for each fabric.

-Come back next week!